Our dictionary defines "bistro" as small and unpretentious, an apt
description for Cafe de Paris. It's the kind of place you'd
find on practically every corner in Paris, but here in New York it stands out.
For one thing it takes a Frenchman from a small village to truly understand
and produce simple, regional food. For another in this food fickle town a 13-year
existence is a milestone. What are those patrons eating? Just about the most
addictive french fries, snails with pernod and cheese sauce, entrecote with
rich charolaise sauce and a bevy of Gallic desserts such as tarte tatin.
Cafe de Paris, 924 Second Avenue at 49th Street, New York, NY 10022. Tel. 212-486-1411.
Open for lunch and dinner, Monday to Saturday. Moderate.